Latest update February 12th, 2025 8:40 AM
Jan 21, 2025 Letters
Dear Editor,
Ravi Dev’s detailed letter on “Seven Curry” offers an insightful perspective on its historical and cultural roots, yet certain claims merit clarification and a more nuanced analysis. While his discussion on the history of indentured labourers and their culinary adaptations is valuable, some of his assertions lack comprehensive evidence or fail to account for broader contexts.
Claim 1: “Ghee was unavailable to Hindus, implying they cooked their food primarily with water.”
This claim oversimplifies the dietary practices of Indian indentured labourers and their descendants. Ghee has always held religious and cultural significance in Hindu traditions, used especially during festivals, weddings, and religious offerings, even in times of economic hardship.
Historical records show that indentured labourers prioritized religious observances, often saving scarce resources to ensure that rituals, including the use of ghee, were performed according to tradition. Researchers like Dr. Brinsley Samaroo and Professor Lomarsh Roopnarine have documented how indentured Indians in the Caribbean maintained cultural practices by sourcing essential items like ghee or substituting with locally available alternatives when necessary. The persistence of ghee in Hindu pujas, even today, underscores its cultural continuity rather than its absence.
Additionally, while cooking oils like mustard oil were commonly used among poorer classes in India, the dietary habits of indentured labourers in British Guiana evolved as their economic circumstances improved. By the early 20th century, many Indo-Guyanese could afford to incorporate ghee or other oils into their diets.
Claim 2: Seven Curry is a relic of indentured subsistence practices.
Seven Curry, far from being a static culinary tradition rooted in deprivation, reflects a sophisticated adaptation of Indian dietary practices. The concept of serving multiple dishes on a single platter or leaf is directly derived from the Indian *thali*, a balanced meal offering a variety of tastes and nutrients.
According to culinary historian Colleen Taylor Sen, the ‘thali’ tradition was common across regions in India, emphasizing nutritional variety by including dishes rich in protein (dal), fibre (vegetables), and carbohydrates (rice or roti). In Guyana, Seven Curry adapted to local resources, incorporating ingredients like eddo leaves, pumpkin, and bora. This adaptation underscores resilience and cultural ingenuity rather than a mere echo of subsistence living.
Mauritius, another former indentured colony, provides a parallel example with its sept-cari (Seven Curry), which has similarly evolved into a cherished national dish while maintaining its cultural and religious symbolism. This global context demonstrates that Seven Curry is not a mere relic of indentured hardship but a dynamic cultural expression that has transcended its origins.
Claim 3: Indo-Guyanese cuisine reflects a singular experience.
Mr. Dev’s framing of Seven Curry as the definitive marker of Indo-Guyanese culinary identity risks overshadowing the diversity within the community itself. Tamil indentured labourers, who constituted a smaller but significant percentage of migrants, brought distinct culinary traditions, including spicy tamarind-based dishes and coconut-rich curries. Their influence is evident in dishes like dal puri and ‘amchar’ which have become integral to Indo-Guyanese cuisine.
Moreover, Indo-Guyanese culinary practices have not developed in isolation but in interaction with other cultural groups in Guyana, including Afro-Guyanese, Indigenous peoples, and Portuguese. This interplay has enriched the nation’s culinary heritage, with dishes like curry and roti being embraced beyond the Indo-Guyanese community.
While Seven Curry is a significant cultural tradition, it is essential to view it as part of a broader, evolving Indo-Guyanese identity. Historical and contemporary evidence contradicts the notion of ghee’s absence in Hindu practices or Seven Curry’s static origins. Instead, these traditions reflect the community’s adaptability, resilience, and contributions to Guyana’s multicultural fabric.
By acknowledging the diversity within Indo-Guyanese cuisine and its interaction with other cultural influences, we can foster a more inclusive understanding of Guyana’s rich heritage.
Sincerely,
Banmattie Singh
(Ravi Dev’s take on 7 Curry is an attempt to make President Ali inaccuracy sound accurate )
Feb 12, 2025
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