The stench lingered in my car. Guyana is a horrible place

Jan 30, 2010 Features / Columnists, Freddie Kissoon

Mark Benschop extended an invitation to me on Thursday morning to visit the Wales factory to talk to striking sugar workers. We arrived at the estate and walked through the gate; I didn’t see the guard.
As we were leaving (we went with separate cars), outside of the gate, this fellow came upon to my window and began abusing me. His point was that we should not have entered the compound without management’s permission. I offered an apology but he said an apology was just words. And he refused to identify himself. Later the workers told us he was the field manager.
In my younger days, he would have borne the full brunt of my scatological vocabulary. Benschop’s car had already pulled off but on seeing the confrontation, he reversed. As soon as Benschop got out of his SUV, the pugnacious Guysuco official disappeared into his car.
As Benschop followed his vehicle on foot as he tried to seek refuge in his compound, Benschop let him have the same scatological vocabulary I often used in younger times. This situation was hilarious as a group of us found out when we discussed it over fish and plantain chips in Campbellville after we reached Georgetown.
Benschop is a scrawnier figure than I am. Logic would dictate to the gentleman that he act out his aggression on Benschop rather than me. But he became afraid of Benschop instead. What is your explanation?
Let’s move on. I hadn’t been to Wales since 2007 so I suggested to Benschop that we tour the village. What I am about to describe to you resembles Haiti’s present condition. The Wales Secondary School is in an awful state, shocking to say the least. Five out of the eight toilets are out of order. Keeping a toilet clean is not rocket science. Once there is flowing water and a cleaner, then how can they reach the deplorable state that they are in?
If the wash-lady cleans them daily (as should be the case in any civilised, modern country), then they can be used all the time. Wales Secondary School sits on a jungle. That place has not seen a weeding in years. Many of the windows are hanging.
Our next stop was the Magistrate’s Court. All the windows have panes missing. There cannot be court on a rainy day; there will be a deluge. Even the Magistrate’s office was not spared.
The Magistrate’s court is in the same compound with the police station. It looks like the septic tank has been overflowing for centuries because it sits in an island of sewage water.
The line running from the water-tank to the building has a hole and hundreds of gallons of water are wasted each day. How can judicial officials and police personnel work under those semi-civilised conditions?
Now I come to the horror story that characterises this sad, tragic, lost land. We went to visit the police station. The stench of urine and feces punctuated the air. I took my handkerchief, placed it over my nose and walked into the station. Benschop, all decked out in jacket and tie, it appeared, was oblivious to the stench. The station cells (two of them) are at the front of the station right next to the front desk. Policemen have to sit at their desks inhaling that stench 24/7.
The desks are less than six feet from the cells. I couldn’t bear it. I had to leave. Benschop eventually got hit with the putridity and decided to exit with me.
As I entered my car, the stench was all over the inside of the vehicle. I had a Pepsi drink with me. As I uncorked it, I thought I smelled the rottenness inside of it. I couldn’t use my Pepsi. As I was about to drive off, a pretty Chinese woman inquired if I was going to Georgetown. I said yes and she requested a ride. I couldn’t believe it. I thought Chinese residents in Guyana do not mix with the locals.
Then I did a silly thing. I suggested that she would be more comfortable with Benschop because he was dressed to kill in a pin-stripe suit and I did say to her she would get more thrills because he drives faster. Benschop agreed to take her and off they went. Of course, I am married, Benschop is not, so Benschop is more in need of matrimonial prospects. My Wales visit taught me more about my country. My country is a backward place daily drifting away from modernisation.

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The stench lingered in my car. Guyana is a horrible place

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